It is generally accepted that rummy-type (draw, meld, discard, try to go out) games originated in China (don’t worry, I’ll get to mahjong eventually). I’ve played many different variants on the idea, and when I was researching card games played during the heyday of El Camino Real, I was pleased to discover that the very first rummy-style game in the west came from Latin America. The best guess is Mexico during the 1860’s, but even as of the roaring 20s, game rule collectors weren’t sure. Here’s an excerpt from Foster’s Complete Hoyle, in its third publication in 1922.
The etymology of this word is Spanish, con quién, “with whom”, but of the game it stands for, little or nothing is known except that it is a great favorite in Mexico, and in all the American States bordering upon it, especially Texas. It is an excellent game for two players, quite different from any other in its principles, and requiring very close attention and a good memory to play it well. In its finer points, especially in the judgment of what the adversary holds or is playing for, it ranks with our best games, and will probably grow in popularity as it becomes better known.
The game is played with the 40-card Spanish deck, of course. Remember again that the 10 (sota, or jack) comes immediately after the 7 in sequence. For play with a standard international deck, you can either remove the 8, 9, and 10 from each suit, or the three face cards to have a continuous run from Ace through 10. In this game, the Ace is low, and the King is high. When played with stakes, each game is worth one bet, and if it is a tie, another bet is added and a new hand played until someone wins.
Since it is my oldest source, I will be pulling the rules from Foster’s Hoyle. Modern sources or apps may vary slightly in the number of cards dealt, but the rest of the gameplay remains the same.
The goal of the game is to be the first to meld 11 cards. A meld is either 3 or 4 cards of the same rank (the 3 of cups, swords, and coins, for example), or at least 3 numbers in sequence within the same suit (such as the 7, 10, and 11 of batons). In common card-playing jargon, cards of the same rank are a set, while cards in sequence within a suit are a run.
Traditionally, both players are dealt 10 cards, two at a time, and the remainder of the deck is placed in the center as a draw pile. Play begins with the non-dealer. The first player turns over the top card of the deck, and checks whether they can form a meld with anything in their hand. If so, they lay down the cards to meld before adding the revealed card from the deck. This is important, since so many other games work differently. A player never draws a card into their hand for this game. The first player now has a choice:
- Play at least two cards from their hand to form a valid meld (set of 3 or 4, run of 3 or more cards in suit) with the face-up card from the deck – you cannot lay down a meld without using the card from the deck. Afterward, they discard 1 card from their hand, ending their turn.
- Reject the card, ending their turn.
After this decision has been made, the second player has a slightly different choice:
- Play a meld using at least two cards from their hand with the discarded/rejected card from the previous player’s turn. Afterward, discard a card from their hand, ending their turn.
- Reject the card left by the last player. Turn this card face-down to form a waste pile. The waste pile cards are out of the game and will not come up again. Then, reveal the next card from the top of the deck and either meld it, or reject it, which ends their turn and passes this new card to the other player.
Play continues like this, with an old card to either use or reject. If rejected, it is discarded permanently, and a new card is revealed to be decided on before passing play again. After you have melds on the table, you may add the revealed card to your existing melds by itself or with a card from your hand. Again, you may not meld to anything from your hand without using the card from the deck.
After any meld, you discard 1 card from your hand to pass to your opponent. If your discard causes you to be out of cards, the game is not over until you have eleven cards melded in front of you – you just have to hope for a lucky rejection or draw to win. If you run out of cards in the draw pile, the game is a tie and you play again.
Seems simple so far, right? There are just a couple little wrinkles left: Borrowing, and Forcing.
Borrowing is about using cards from a meld of 4 or more cards to form a new meld with the card in play from the deck. You can pull one card from a set of 4 of a kind, or from either end of a run. No meld can have fewer than 3 cards after any borrowing is complete.
Forcing is when you make your opponent use a card to add onto one of their existing melds (the 4th card to a set, or to extend a run from either end). It can be done in only two situations:
- They reject your discard or drawn card, and turn over a new one that can be used on their visible melds
- After you have melded, as it is the only time you would discard.
To force a card, simply pick it up once revealed or you discard, and play it on their meld, telling them to discard, instead of melding normally. This is a technique to disrupt a potential meld in their hand, making it more difficult to finish melding their full 11 cards.
It is interesting to see elements that were used by so many later rummy games. The rearranging of melds is especially interesting to me, since the first place I encountered it was in Rummikub, which despite just being plastic tiles representing cards, is considered more of a board game. I have also seen rules stating the initial deal as 8 or 9 cards, again only requiring melding 1 more card than the number dealt. In this, I prefer the challenge of the original deal of 10. Because there are only 10 cards in each suit, this prevents you from winning with only a very long run.
The game can feel more slow than other rummy games, because of the reject/new card/can’t use/reject mechanic. In other games, you can pick up the discard to try and improve your initial deal, which is not the case here. It adds a greater challenge to do the best you can with your deal, but it can be frustrating to realize you cannot possibly go out and have to go through the motions of rejecting cards until you finish the deck to tie the game and redeal.
In the example game above, this is exactly what happened. Player 1 only had sets, and the 4th card of each was melded by Player 2. Because they had no other pairs in their hand, and no two cards of the same suit that were close enough for a potential run, they could not meld or discard for the rest of the game. Meanwhile, Player 2 could only win with the 7 of cups, which was in Player 1’s hand and could not be discarded. So, back and forth, they ended up rejecting the last 10 cards in the deck one by one. I think when you’re drinking and gambling and not playing very close attention, this wouldn’t be a problem, but for someone used to the light card-counting that helps in trick-taking games, it is frustrating to know the game will be a tie, but to waste time getting to the redeal.
It is a minor quibble, though, and if you can let that go, Conquian is an enjoyable and challenging game, worthy of being the parent to a wide variety of rummy-type games in the west.
Conquian for iOS (uses the 8 card deal/9 cards melded to win rules)